Focus pocus to you, BLFS legion of doom.
It’s been a while since I wrote a post, but I just haven’t had much to talk about. But now I do. During the world swimming (aquatic, your choice) championship in Barcelona which lasted for 2 weeks, but felt like 2 years, Nikon happened to be one of the official sponsors. Which meant that we had a NPS (Nikon Professional Services) booth inside the media centre and we had access to a troth of Nikon gear including the kind-of-brand-new 800mm f5.6. I did take the black long baby for a spin and the only thing I got out of it was that it was very light. It’s made out of a new material making the lens as heavy as the 400mm f2.8. But it’s way too long and way too long. Making it too long for my everyday use.
Anyhow, there were two Nikon engineers from Japan who were conducting field tests on their current and future gear. Sorry, no D6 on the horizon people. They were collecting data for new firmwares, especially the D4. Apparently the latest firmware gave a better exposure reading on conditions where there are hard shadows on a surface like a football match in the early afternoon. I got talking to them got lots of good info on the D4 and mainly on focusing which I wanted to share with you guys.
(Before we start. The 800mm f5.6 comes is paired with a custom teleconverter which is calibrated to use only with that lens. Therefore you couldn’t use this particular teleconverter with another 800mm f5.6. I asked if they would consider making a new 300mm f2.8 with a custom 1.4 teleconverter to make it a 420mm f4 with a focusing distance much closer than the 400mm f2.8 and almost no loss in focusing accuracy and speed. To that they said they did try that with their 200mm or 300m in the past, but wasn’t wildly successful. Damn them. for not making a boy’s dream come true)
I like to keep my focus and release separately and therefore I’m an AF-ON button guy. They said that the longer you hold down the AF-ON button to focus on a subject, the better focusing accuracy you will get. This is because the fairy inside the D4 is continuously calculating whilst the buttons is held down and the more samples it has, the better the focus. Once you let go of the AF-ON button and press it down again, it will start another calculation. Therefore they advised that it’s better to start focusing on a moving subject earlier than immediately before releasing the shutter. Which means if you are still using the shutter release to focus and take the picture, you better get your ass on the AF-ON band wagon.
Apparently less is better. You may already know this, but the D4 does not do continuous focus with 11fps. Which means you’ll need to use 10fps. They said the accuracy of the focus will even be better at 9fps. This is because of some troll is hindering the focusing when there are too many fps. I did ask will the focusing be even better with 8fps or 2fps to that they said beyond 9fps it makes no difference. So set it at 9fps and forget about it. By the way, 9fps can only be set with CL and not CH on the dial.
3D v Dynamic
Use 3D when there is nothing but the subject and a very very plain background. Like figure skating and blank white ice as a background. Dynamic is better on more complex situations such as rugby and billboards, people, cars, etc. in the background. They told me that it’s better to use 9 points for dynamic focusing as 21 or 51 is way too many for most sports. Here’s how dynamic focusing works. When you select a focus point in your finder, it comes with 9 more sub focus points that surrounds the main one. These sub focus points help achieve better focus points by gathering info around the main focus point. I bet you didn’t know that. Neither did I. Wizard!
Unlike what I heard from the Nikon rep, it’s better to have at least 1 and not none. Apparently This is 0 (none) is way too sensitive and as a result gives you inaccurate focusing. I’m trying it on 1 at the moment, but I might go back to 0 depending on results. Sometimes with 1, I feel that the camera cannot keep up with me. I need my Nikon D4 to be magnet coated (obligatory Gundam reference).
Stick with release priority if you are a sports photographer. Apparently the Release + Focus was made to mimic Canon’s focusing philosophy. I guess they were trying to convert Canonites to Nikonians.
Use it when you have a situation like the hard shadow + hard light = hard contrast on a mid day football pitch situation. Set the ISO to auto and set the shutter speed and fstop on manual. Haven’t tried this but in theory it should work.
These sizzling D4 tips can be used with other Nikon DSLR as well. What I learned is that one focusing method is not an end all to all the sport shooting situations. Especially the 3D focusing v dynamic. Needless to say I was treated like a princess by the Nikon engineers which shows that they are desperate to keep their customers. NPS was even giving out goodie bags which included a 32GB XQD card and a reader. XQD? 143234 times better than any CF card. You won’t believe how fast this thing is. But I don’t know of any CF XQD card reader in existence, which means you end up having two memory card readers sticking out from your laptop. They should have gone with double XQD or double CF. Oh Nikon…
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